Cedar is the most popular wood fence material in Northwest Arkansas — and for good reason. It naturally resists rot and insects, holds up well in our humid summers and wet winters, and looks sharp fresh off the saw. But here's what most homeowners don't know: not all cedar boards are the same, and the differences determine whether you're looking at a fence that lasts 5 years or 20.

At Thomas Fence, we've been installing wood fences in Springdale, Bentonville, Rogers, and the rest of NWA since 1993. We've replaced a lot of failed fences that were built with low-grade material sold as standard cedar. This guide covers what to look for — and what to ask your contractor — before you sign anything.

The Grade Problem: Not All Cedar Boards Are Created Equal

Cedar is sold in several grades. The grade affects appearance, density, heartwood content, and ultimately how long the board will last outdoors. The most common grades you'll encounter:

  • #1 Grade (Clear): Tight grain, minimal knots, high heartwood content. This is the premium product. It costs more, but the natural oils in the heartwood are what give cedar its rot resistance.
  • #2 Grade (Standard): Some knots, more sapwood. Still serviceable for fencing when properly maintained, but not as durable as #1 grade over time.
  • #3 Grade and Below: Loose grain, significant knots, high sapwood content. This is sometimes sold as "cedar fence boards" at box stores. It will deteriorate significantly faster than premium cedar.

Ask your contractor specifically: "What grade of cedar boards are you using?" If they can't answer or say "standard lumber yard cedar," that's a flag. A quality contractor knows exactly what they're ordering.

Heartwood vs. Sapwood: Why This Matters More Than Grade

The most important distinction in cedar is heartwood versus sapwood. Heartwood is the dense inner wood — darker in color, high in natural oils and tannins that repel moisture and insects. Sapwood is the lighter outer wood near the bark. It has almost none of the rot-resistant properties cedar is known for.

A board can be graded #1 but still have significant sapwood if it was cut from the outer portion of the log. Visually, heartwood is darker red-brown; sapwood is pale yellow-white. When you're comparing bids, look at the actual boards, not just the grade label.

Moisture Content: The Hidden Variable

Green (freshly cut) cedar has high moisture content. As it dries, it shrinks — and if the boards are already installed on your fence when they dry, they will warp, cup, and split. This is one of the most common causes of a fence looking bad within a year of installation.

Kiln-dried cedar has had moisture removed in a controlled environment, making it more dimensionally stable. Air-dried cedar can also be acceptable if it's been properly stored. Ask your contractor whether the boards are green, air-dried, or kiln-dried.

In Arkansas's climate — hot, humid summers followed by cooler winters — properly dried cedar performs significantly better long-term than green lumber.

The Cut: Flat Sawn vs. Vertical Grain

How the board was cut from the log affects its stability. Vertical grain (also called edge grain or quarter-sawn) cedar has the growth rings running perpendicular to the face of the board. It's more stable, less prone to cupping, and wears more evenly. Flat sawn boards (growth rings roughly parallel to the face) are more common and less expensive, but more prone to cupping as they dry.

For fence pickets, flat sawn is standard and acceptable — but for posts and rails, vertical grain lumber performs better over time.

Posts: The Foundation That Determines Everything

Cedar pickets get all the attention, but the posts are what make or break a fence. Most residential fences in NWA use pressure-treated pine for posts, not cedar. Pressure-treated lumber is rated for ground contact (look for .40 or higher retention level on the label) and is more cost-effective for posts than cedar of equivalent durability.

At Thomas Fence, we set all posts in concrete — it's standard practice and the right way to do it. We drill or dig the hole, set the post, plumb it, and pour concrete around it. Posts set in concrete don't shift, and a fence is only as straight as its posts.

Ask your contractor: "Are posts set in concrete?" Any quality fence contractor in NWA will say yes. If the answer is no or it's presented as optional, move on.

How Long Before You Can Stain?

This question comes up on nearly every wood fence project. The answer depends on the species:

  • Pressure-treated pine: Wait 1–3 months before staining. The preservative treatment and moisture need time to dry out. Staining too early traps moisture and the stain won't penetrate properly.
  • Cedar: Can be stained immediately after installation. Cedar's low moisture content means it accepts stain right away.

Thomas Fence installs fences but does not stain them. For staining in Northwest Arkansas, we're happy to refer you to local companies that specialize in it.

Questions to Ask Any Fence Contractor Before You Buy

  1. What grade of cedar boards are you supplying?
  2. What is the heartwood content — can I see a sample board?
  3. Are the boards green, air-dried, or kiln-dried?
  4. What species and treatment level are the posts?
  5. Are all posts set in concrete?
  6. What is your craftsmanship warranty?
  7. Are you a licensed contractor in Arkansas?

At Thomas Fence, we hold Arkansas Contractor License No. 015501, have held it since 2005, and are AFA Certified Fence Contractors. We're happy to answer every one of these questions before you decide — no pressure, no deposit required for standard residential work.

If you're ready to talk about your wood fence project in Northwest Arkansas, contact us here or call (479) 636-4732.